I have a Whirlpool Washer/Dryer set from 1998. They’ve been great, but I started looking to see what’s out there because I’ll probably need to replace them in the near future.
I went to an appliance store (not Home Depot, etc). The guy was very knowledgeable, but what he said really shocked me.
He said that washing machines are now designed with a free-floating tub (more movement of the washer) and mostly plastic parts. The result is that the average lifespan of a new washer is 6 years!!
So washers are designed to be “more efficient”, but they end up in the landfill about twice as fast? How is this progress?
He did show me Speed Queen, which doesn’t do all of that, and is built more like what I currently have. Pricier, but the expected lifespan is 15-20 years.
What have you heard/experienced about washing machines these days?
I have to say that I was totally gobsmacked by this!
I had an old Whirlpool washer for 20 years that was great right up to the day it needed to be rplacd. I replaced it with another Whirlpool that was “high efficiency”. And it lacked an agitator, so items just kind of float around and slightly move and things like t-shirts end up kind of compacted to the point where the spin cycle isn’t able to get all the water out of it. And more often than not, clothes seem to gather on one side of the tub, resulting in an out of balance condition in the spin cycle. Rather than stopping and alerting to an out of balance condition, this thing just happily spins out of balance and causes the washer to “walk” from where it was. This happens with towels a LOT. As a result, the dryer is unable to dry completely (even on high heat) and I have to run two cycles to dry. It also has a “smart fill” feature that never seemed to get my clothes clean. Fortunately I am able to set it to just do a full fill.
I think the out of balance thing is going to cause it to die way sooner than the other one did. If I am able to hear it spinning out of balance, I have to go down to the basement, manually pause it…wait for the lid to unlock and then rearrange the load. It’s the poorest excuse for a washer that I have ever seen. When I replace it, I am hoping to find a “low efficiency” washer with an agitator to replace it. This may not be an issue with a front load washer, but I will NEVER by another top loader without at least an agitator.
The thing that scares me with the “out of balance” issue — I have a small laundry room where the water pipe into the house is a couple of inches in front of the washer and the gas connection for the dryer is between the washer and dryer.
So if the washer “walks”, it could bust a water or gas line!
So for me, it sounds like the Speed Queen model is what I want, because it doesn’t have that “newer” design.
And I’ll do what I’ve always done – large/heavy blankets and comforters go to the laundromat !
And I’m just appalled at the planned obsolescence of the newer washers…
My first washer was a Kenmore that was still going strong 26 years later when I left it behind on a move. (It had even traveled to Europe and run on a converter for several years.) I used the Whirlpool that was in the house I bought for four years before I decided to replace it. Based on what I could find it was 37 years old and still functioning when it was carried out. I replaced it with a Maytag Bravos which I loved. So nice not dealing with the center agitator. I very rarely had an unbalanced load issue. This year, at age 16, the bearings started to go. I’m not capable of that type of repair and no friend or family in that category either. Got several quotes and they were all at least the cost of a new washer. I limped along with it until the drum started freezing up and the noise became really annoying.
CR does not rate any top load washer very highly these days. Front loaders are quieter, don’t go off balance etc. I still wanted an agitator free top loader and narrowed it down to Whirlpool/Maytag and LG. None come with any kind of really decent warranty though the LG does give 10 years on the drive motor fwiw. Ended up going with the LG on not much more than a flip of the coin. I’m happy with it so far but the build is definitely not as substantial as previous washers. Not fond of the flimsy feeling drawer for detergent and I swear the lid is part plastic. It will be interesting to see how and how long it holds up - particularly since it’s the first time I’ve strayed from Whirlpool/Maytag on any major appliance.
You’ve had better luck without the agitator than I have. In my old washer I could wash the linens from a king size bed. That’s impossible in the new washer…it just can’t handle them. I have to make a trip to the laundromat for bed linens. I don’t believe I have ever had a load of towels that was not out of balance on the spin cycle. And regular clothes seem to “wad up” in the wash cycle and retains more water in the spin cycle, so I either have to “un-wad” them and run a second spin cycle or I have to run the dryer thru two cycles. In my opinion, any “advances” in technology haven’t made things better.
I have a GE washing machine that is a couple of years old. It is a top loader, and it does not have an agitator, and it is a high-efficiency model. I have to run it on the “bulk cycle” most of the time to get enough water into the machine to get the clothes clean. The spin cycle is an issue too. It gets out of balance very easily.
If I had to buy another one today, I would stick with a top loader, but I would opt for one with an agitator. I think the government requires all washers to be HE, so I think we are stuck with that.
Whirlpool is a quality brand, and they make some of the other brands. They are easy to work on and they are easy to get spare parts for repairs if needed. You could consider buying a used model from an appliance store which specializes in used models.
I would stay away from the pricier models which have tons of features. I think you may be asking for issues buying one of those. I would also not recommend going with one of the models that washes and dries, I have read reviews of those models and I see they can take hours to complete a cycle.
Haven’t had water level issues on either machine though the new one has a deep soak or similar cycle that will fill higher. Tried it successfully on a comforter. I don’t generally do overly large loads so maybe that improves spin stability? I also spin on medium as a rule. Fitted sheets seemed to be my nemesis in the early days. Took a few loads to figure out how best to load them to avoid catching everything up in a big soggy ball inside the sheet.
The newer washers without an agitator do not clean well, top or front loading. Make SURE a top loader has an agitator otherwise it will stop spinning and you will have will need to readjust the clothes often.
My old Maytag Model A105 (made in Newton, Iowa) is hard to beat. The thing that sold me on this Maytag and also on the one other (used) one that I have owned, is that they were made to do only one thing, and to do it well: wash clothes! No bells, whistles, or electronic crapola to break or burn out. Looking at the date I wrote on the front of the Maytag manual, we bought it in November, 1988. It has been running regularly for 36 years, no vibration, no problems, with no signs of quitting. I did replace the main drive belt about 5 years ago. No big deal because there were complete diagrams on the Maytag online site. I suppose the pump belt will be next to go in maybe another 5 or 10 years. I would be a fool to trade this thing in for a new “modern high-efficiency” washer. In my opinion, if it can’t clean clothes, then the efficiency grade is automatically a big fat ZERO! I would not trade even if someone gave me a new one for free. Washers are not the only appliance that has been thrown out with the bathwater. All new appliances that I have seen lately are simply junk, made to fail, or malfunction, or they simply don’t do the job. I think the main reason is so much of our stuff is now made in China, by our enemy who is determined to destroy our economy in every way that they can. I have seen many Chinese appliance parts that have built-in traps, or early-failure triggers. They are doing a great job of tearing down our country.
Nicki54 - My out of balance issues are with heavier items - jeans, sheets, dress slacks, etc. I used to be able to do sheets but I have to take them to the laundromat since this washer (same size as my old one) can’t handle them.
MyCC - you’re lucky if yours stops on an out of balance condition…mine continues to spin out of balance and “walks” across the flor. I have to hear the racket and go down and manaully stop it, rearrange and put it on “rinse and spin” to complete.
I happened to be at Lowes and The Home Depot yesterday, and I took some time to browse the washing machines. Most of the washing machines were top loaders. Perhaps the front loaders are dropping out of favor with consumers because of the issues they have. A couple of models have a removable agitator. I found that interesting. I do not think I would buy a model without an agitator, but being able to remove it for some loads seems like a nice feature. Most models now have a control for the water level. Many of the HE models did not have a control to select the desired water level and consumers complained that their washers did not put enough water into the tub to properly wash clothes. Maybe the washing machine manufacturers are starting to listen to what consumers want.
KCflyer, I’ve had much better luck than you have with my no agitator washing machine. 7 or 8 years ago I bought a Maytag Centennial Commercial and it has been very reliable and good at it’s job. It washes bed sheets well but once in a while it will go out of balance. I just pause it, re-arrange the sheets and hit “Start/Pause” button again.
I’m sure you all know this: With no agitator you have to load around the outside of the tub, keeping the middle uncovered. When I start the machine it starts and stops, measuring the weight of the load to determine how much water to use. I have never felt the clothes come out of a wash “dirty”. I did buy my Maytag at Lowes.
Last year I had to replace my 1973 builder’s grade GE washer because the drum rusted through after 50 years’ use. Boy have things hit the skids - about 1/3 the capacity and controls that are automatic, not user operated. I think the wringer machines of the 1950s may be better. Try to add something after the cycle starts and the blasted toy pumps itself dry. I finally rigged a way to defeat the top loader safety switch so it would fill with the lid open so I can distribute the load for best balance and add softeners, bleach etc. AS WANTED, not as the manufacturer decrees for the whole load. Give me back 1950-70 technology please. It’s as frustrating as the AI that finished your typing with the wrong word, making you go back & edit (1 of the examples here-I was typing think and the AI printed thing)
I agree that newer machines are not great. I have issues with washing machines and dishwasher that incorrectly ‘know’ better what I want than I do.
For example, why do I need a washer to be stingy with water whn I have 80,000 gallons of rainwater standing by. Why do I need a machine to be economical with electricity if I had solar (it is not like we will run out of sunshine anytime soon).
My dishwasher won’t let be adjust the drying heat and always leaves dishes wet. There is no dial to be able to skip ahead to dry again.
Even on older outdoors washing machines, I bypassed the safety switch so I could add extra water (from a hose) to the washer during spin cycles.
The logic in the ols washing machines was all in the knob/switch which was moved by a motor. A replacement was cheap and it was never made inoperable because of a power surge like a computer board would be.
I don’t know what brand machine you have but on both the previous Whirlpool and my new LG you pause the cycle by just lightly touching the start button (I’m assuming it’s electronic). That pauses the cycle and releases the latch. Do what you need to do then tap or hold start to resume.
If you have a balance problem on a washer that used to spin okay, then check to see if it is still level, from side-to-side and front-to-back. While flipping houses, it was a rare utility room that did not have a soft wood floor from water leaks around the washer, hot water heater, and laundry sink. If a floor has a soft spot, one of the legs on your washer may not be carrying 1/4 of the weight, making the washer go out-of-balance on heavy loads. Check the floor, then check the top of the machine to make sure it has not been dented or bent out-of-level, then check the level of the machine with a carpenter level. Adjust the leveling screws so that the bubble is exactly the same in both directions. Any variation can cause out-of-balance at high spin speeds. Find the side with a “short” leg on a floor soft spot, then lengthen that leg. You may need to use a piece of wood to bridge over a soft spot in a wood floor. You may even need to replace the floor. If the washer is in a tight corner, it is difficult to adjust the two rear legs. Then you have to pull out the washer and adjust the back legs by checking the floor and then adjusting the length of the two back screws to make the washer rear side level from side-to-side. Then slide the washer back into its hole, and use the front legs to level it from front-to-back and the front side from side-to-side. A hand truck is very useful for moving the washer back and forth out of a small space while you use trial-and-error to get it level.
For 13 years my old style top loader with an agitator may have had 1 out of balance condition…maybe not even that many. My new and improved washer with no agitator where the clothes get wet and ball up, tends to have an out of balance condition about 2 or 3 times a month. I’m pretty convinced that the agitator prevents the clothes from wadding up and settling in the bottom of the drum. I’m in the process of moving my laundry upstairs from the basement, and I will be buying a new washer with an agitator to replace it.
By the way, the same is true for Sewing Machines! Almost all modern ones have electronics in them with mother boards and such. And they do fancy stitches, for which there is little use. Older machines tend to be all mechanical so there is no electronics to break. Clean 'em and oil them and they keep on going. Couple of examples are the '80s vintage Bernina, and the Singer featherweight which might very well be a hundred years old and go another hundred.