GE Lighting: "The Halogen and Incandescent Light Bulb Ban Explained"

I had originally switched from incandescent to CFLs as a way to cut power costs as we have the highest electric rate in the country. Now that LEDs are better I have switched all lights to LEDs.

Many of the bulbs can be managed by by echo units. I have a string of lights between the parking area and the house which come on automatically at night. I have LED bulbs in the bathroom and hallway which are color-changing. They come on automatically between dusk and dawn but are set to be red. They have enough light to see by but not enough to fully ake me; thus they are nightlights unless I need them to be ‘daylight’ bright white.

Because our state is headed to become energy independant before all others, the electric company offers a major discount on the purchase of LED bulbs. A pack of LEDs might be listed at Costco for $24 retail, yet after instant rebate might be $4 at the register.

We all have Google and can do searches. Why do you habitually post sites and add nothing to the discussion?

How about giving us an idea about your thoughts on the subject… :face_with_raised_eyebrow:

Well, H200h, I’m worried about the effect that the ban will have on the poor.

LED bulb purchase price is in a constant nosedive. Price on 100w bulbs now nearing the $2/bulb price as opposed to $1/bulb for incandescent at the low end. Considering even the cheapest LEDs will likely have a lifespan of 10 times that of an incandescent, the choice should be obvious. Not to mention the huge household energy-savings bonus.

Smart bulbs can still be expensive (although the price is dropping), but non-smart LED bulbs? Even the better quality brands are pretty inexpensive. And a huge energy savings. And typically much better CRI.

So A19 is equivalent to a 100 Watt Incandescent bulb Bulb and the A13 … the 60 Watt Bulb.

i guess it was to easy to call them the A10 and A6 or even A100 and A60. Why be so obtuse?

It’s their policy… :nerd_face:

A19 and A13 and A21 and BR 30, etc are the physical size and shape of the bulb, not the wattage or wattage equivalent of the light provided.

We are at the age where we buy the 100 Equiv almost exclusively.

When I go into the Bulb aisle at WalMart… it takes me at least twice as long for me to be sure I found the right bulb… seems 60s are more popular among the young.

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I only shop based upon EQUIVALENT wattage or more importantly, LUMENS. Lumens are a measument of light output where wattage is how much current is drawn from the source voltage.

I have a hair drier that draws boatloads of watts yet produces very little light. Even a bulb that draws 100 watts may not produce enough light. A car may get 30 MPH under normal circumstances but could get a lot better mileage if it is coasting down hill :slight_smile:

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Remembering a Bugs Bunny Comic Book where bugs looked at a map and decided he could coast to Florida!

My EV even charges the batteries when it goes downhill! :blue_car:

I am sensitive to both colour and lumens…a reason that i like smart bulbs where i can change both. Later at night lower lumens and lower kelvins are ok. But earlier in the day and evening i need 5000k and brighter light. Activity also matters, but that tends to be associated with the timing.

The link i posted listed positive feelings with 2700k. That light colour gives me very negative feelings…depressing, angry, irritated.

As a kid, we always had 100 watt bulbs in all the fixtures. It wasnt until my folks were older that they began using 60 watt bulbs.

I like that a few places have side by side bulb displays showing the type of light produced. That way you can see daylight vrs warm, etc.


A few years ago, I was in a lighting store, and they had a similar display for CRI. On one side was a typical 80+ CRI, and on the other side was one that was 95+. Huge difference in colour accuracy of what was being lit.

Here’s a color chart we can all refer to:

I think most people like warmer lighting to relax in. To read or see fine detail & color diferences… maybe something more toward the blue scale.

Going off topic a bit, has anyone else replaced their conventional fluorescent lighting with the LED tubes. I replaced the basement ones 4 or 5 years ago with the type that required some rewiring of the conventional fixture, bypassing the noisy ballasts, etc. They’ve worked flawlessly. The newer LED tubes work without modifying the conventional fixtures. Even easier.

I did on the carport about 5 or 6 years ago. And a couple of years after, i replaced the fixtures in the garage that used 8’ fluorescent tubes with 4’ linkable led fixtures with motion detection.

The ones on the carport work fine, but weren’t what i wanted (my plan was to install can lights instead). My contractor made the change before i gave her an answer…wasn’t worth arguing about.

Between the two, i prefer the linkable led fixtures with motion detection.